May 24, 2010

Wedgemont Attempt III - James Turner Tent Time

Third time trying to find a perfect weather with perfect people to climb some routes on Wedgemont area, this time we have a little more time so planned to hit James Turner, 10km east from the lake. by Needle Glr.

Boot packed with skis, technical crampons, some ice screws, four pickets, rope lots draws and protection, tent. we slowly booted up to Wedgemont Lk, camped by the outlet where water was and early started Sat with low ceiling at 6am heading towards Wedge-Weart col. The storm came in just after we got up Wedge glacier and couldn't see anything. carefully GPS navigated to WW col and decided to camp there and not going to JT in this pace of white out navigation. Sunday was forecasted a sunny day so we could just bag Wedge via NE arete. We napped from 2pm to 7pm, fried up spam with a cup of butter, black beans and rice for dinner, a little over salty but it was delicious. slept from 10pm until early morning to check weather at pretty much every hour. No sign of improvement so we kept on napping and waking up to 9am.

We got about feet and half new snow, gorgeous mid weight powder. it started to get brighter so we thought the condition was finally matching up the weather forecast. packed up and give NE arete a shot but didn't get very far. condition got worst and we pulled the camp and went for sweet sweet powder skiing down Wedge glacier back to hut. it was one of the best skiing of this season, no need to mention this is late May! We stopped by the Lake Hut to see party of 12 bailed out and only had a party of 2 up there to spend a night. We started to head down at 4pm and skiing down hugging the trees along the open drainage to tree line was sweet steep. some crust tree skiing down to about 1400m, past the avy pass by the creek, we started boot pack again. After some gruesome knee bashing boot pack down steep loamy trail. We got to car about 7:30pm, had victory beer of Twilight from Oregon and happily hit the high way to come home. Highly worth the boot pack even with mtnr gear for the powder slaying !!

My camera started to buzz during the storm and won't store pictures. settings on the LCD all jumping crazy numbers, can still take photos but won't save. I wonder if it had something to do with the storm or just being regularly 'wet'?

Only so little photos.

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